This entry deals with how to make a low cost bass shaker, this is extremely low tech with minimum skills requirement.

The tymbal is a a simple and effective bass shaker design that gives excellent output for little expense. While not as powerful as commercial high mass high power consumption solutions, it gives exceptionally good tactile feedback with a low power requirement. This is generally useful in flight and race sim gaming, however can also add some immersion for movie watching or other forms of gaming. The upper frequency of the tymbal is much higher than commercial high mass systems, while the low end isn’t as powerful. 


This blog will show you how to make your own.

Let’s start with what you will need:

  • 1.  Audio Amplifier (Min 50W RMS per shaker if using similar drivers as this guide). These low cost amplifiers work pretty well. 

2.  Casting plastic, anything you can find really, I use FastCast F160 but any similar product will work. Ideally your material should be suitable to mix with a filler for lower cost, alternatively, you can use the cast without filler, just keep in mind generally the higher the volume the less time you have to mix and pour, if casting without a filler, I recommend you mix one driver at a time. 

3.  A mixing cup and tongue depressor. 

4.  Filler, you can either use fillers supplied by your local composites shop since you will most likely get your casting plastic from there in any case, or something that I will use, is chrome sand, which has a higher density than typical filler. 

5.  Weighing scale, the accuracy isn’t critical any kitchen scale will do.

6.  Driver, so the driver you select is pretty important, 8″ drivers work really well, when selecting a driver one of your easiest routes is to go to your local car audio dealer and have a look at what subs they have available, feel the suspension in them, the stiffer, the better. 

Let’s start. First you want to weigh out the filler, I’m going to fill this driver with around 175g in total, this might not sound like a lot, but it works really well, if you increase it too much you might end up wearing out your suspension, and too little, obviously won’t have as much force. So as a basic rule, if doubling the fill to 350g you should also increase your power from 50w to 200w. If you’re using say a 10″ driver, you can probably go to 250g of fill and 150W and if increasing to 500g increase power to 600w. By fill I mean to final cast weight of the mix. 

Next, rather simple, mix the plastic cast in with the filler, I’m mixing in 25g of each since this is a 50/50 mix ratio product, depending on what cast you will use, the manufacturer will tell you what ratio A and B to mix. You need to rather mix a little longer and make sure you get a homogeneous mixture before you pour or you might end up with a slimy sludge that never dries. 

Once poured into the driver cone you’ll end up with this.

So this is where the most difficult part comes in. You’ll have to now do nothing, and just wait, it might take as long as 5 minutes until it’s dry, so make sure you have your phone nearby. When it starts to look like this, you might be tempted to touch it.

This could kill you, so don’t. Well not really but if you don’t want smudgy fingerprints in your fancy new shaker, don’t touch it yet. You can feel some heat coming off the mixture. 

Once complete there isn’t anything else to do but mount it. So there you go, simple 10 minute bass shaker. 

If you build one or more following this guide, get in touch, let us know how it went.